Note: these are general instructions to guide you through the finishing process using water based products. Always refer to the manufacturer's specific instructions. Application guidelines for each manufacturer may vary.
Attributes of Water Based Finishes
This information has been developed to assist you in selecting the best finish for your project. Application techniques differ between oil based and water based products. There are several factors that may influence your choice.
Strong, clear vibrant colors
Nothing produces beautiful colors better than water based finishing products. Red, blues and greens and everything between produce vibrantly in water based finishes. Whether you want brilliant hues to enhance a neutral room, a touch of whimsy or the comfort of classic colors; furniture color is the perfect venue for self expression. With unfinished furniture, the possibilities are endless.
Top Coat Color
Water based top coats are milky white in the can and dry to a crystal clear finish. Oil based top coats have a slight amber color.
Clean Up
Water clean up.
Non-Combustible
Water based products are non-combustible, unlike oil based products.
Recommended finish for open grained woods
Water based products are a topical finish. We recommend using them on any woods that penetrate easily, such as pine or aspen, to produce a more even looking finish. Conversely, oil based stains tend to penetrate the wood more, and can bring out more variation in the final result. With that said, remember you are applying finish to parts of a tree, and every piece will look different! Click here for a wood species chart (14.7 kb pdf) or just use the fingernail test. If your fingernail dents the surface, you have a soft wood, like pine or aspen.
The sun affects everything! If left in strong sunlight, the pigments and dyes in stains will fade like everything else. Water based furniture paints are an ideal exterior product and hold color quite well over time.
Grain Raise
Water based products produce more grain raising than oil based finishes - they do require a different finishing technique. Before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes. You will get a perfect finish by following the application instructions. The amount of grain raising is dependent on the type of wood species.
Fast Dry Time
Water based products dry faster so your project can be completed faster. Dry times are temperature and humidity dependent. In hot temperatures (85F - 100F) the finish may dry too fast. Use an Extender to open (increase) the dry time. High humidity can cause finishes to take longer to dry but will not harm the final finish.
Temperature
Water based finishes must be applied at temperatures above 65 F. Cooler temperatures will adversely affect how the finish will level and harden, causing fish-eyes or craters. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water based finish. The surface of the wood should also be warm. Warming cold finish by setting the can in some hot water for 5 minutes will improve the ease of application.
Mixing Custom Colors
You can create unique colors by mixing any two shades of water based products. Be sure to write down exactly how much of each color is in the mix and mix enough to complete the entire project. Tinting may be accomplished by adding 10 to 20% Stain to Top Coat. Do not mix water based products with oil based products.
Cure Time
Allow the final Top Coat to cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your furniture sooner. Just treat it with special care during the curing period.
Maintenance
To maintain the finish clean surface with a damp washcloth and wipe dry. Cleaners such as Pledge and Murphy's Oil Soap are not recommended because they leave a dull residue on the finish. Polishes such as orange oil work well for routine maintenance.
Spraying
While both oil based and water based products can be sprayed, water based products really spray like a dream with water clean up. Water based topcoats are self leveling and dry quickly.
Surface Preparation
For more details regarding preparation, supplies, work area tips, etc. visit our Preparation page.
All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils.
Do NOT start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. Sanding is a progressive procedure. Prepare the surface by using medium sand paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. Water based finishes need a smoother surface than oil based finishes, but do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish. Sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such as #120 sandpaper, and finish the final sanding with a fine grit sandpaper such as #220. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain. Refer to our sanding tutorial for more information.
We recommend minimizing the grain raise, especially on hardwoods such as Oak and Ash.Before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes.
Option for wood stains: Soft woods such as Pine andAspen absorb wood stain at an uneven rate and may respond better to staining if the wood is pre-sealed. A natural (clear) stain can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform penetration of the stain. Pre-sealing will cause the final stain to be lighter. Always test your color on a hidden part of the furniture! Allow the natural clear stain to dry 1 hour before applying your final stain color.
Unfinished furniture comes sanded from the factory, but still needs the final sanding with #180 or #220 sandpaper.
Remove dust with an air hose, damp cloth or "oil free" tack cloths. Do not use oil based tack cloths when using water based finish. Most tack cloths contain oil and will contaminate the surface.
Do NOT use steel wool when preparing wood for water based finish, as steel particles will cause rust spots.
Supplies Needed
Lots of good quality paper towels or lint-free cloths for wiping.
Foam brushes (3" to 4" for big projects) or latex paint pad applicators and a bristle brush to pull stain out of corners. You must brush or wash paint pad applicators before use to remove loose bristles.
#100 or #120, and #180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.
#320 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponges for buffing between Top Coats. Do not use steel wool because steel particles left behind will rust.
Soap and water for clean up.
Application of Water Based Wood Stains
Always stir the contents well every time you open the can. Stirring reduces the thickness of the stain and distributes pigments that may have settled to the bottom of the can. It may take several minutes to thoroughly mix the contents so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.
Always do a test firston the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area to check the stain color before proceeding. Do not practice on your new furniture. Every piece of wood and every wood species is unique and will finish differently. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat of stain is adequate. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper color.
Divide your project into manageable sections (top, side, drawer, door) and stain one surface at a time. It is essential to apply with a wet, liberal amount of stain. Load up a 3" or 4" foam brush or latex paint pad with product and apply LIBERALLY, keeping the surface wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off. If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance. As you stain each section, remove excess stain by wiping with a cloth or paper towel thoroughly and consistently in the direction of the grain. Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. Immediately correct lap marks by rewetting the area with stain. Sanding between coats of any stain or Top Coat is called Buffing. Never buff between stain coats.
Application of Water Based Furniture Paint and Glaze
Water based Furniture Paints can be used with glazes and water based stains to create decorative finishes such as distressing, antiquing, faux marble, rag rolling, or color washing. Creating these layered techniques requires using layers of color combined with sanding techniques. The results are stunning and well worth the effort.
Distressing is the technique of marking the wood to give the character of generations of use. The most common technique is distress sanding. Other tools can be used to give further character to wood; hammers, nails, screws, old hardware, literally anything you can pound into the wood that would leave an imprint. Then start hammering away. If it's been a long week and you need a lift, start a little character therapy project for yourself. Get rid of all that stress and distress a piece of furniture at the same time!
Antiquing is another form of distressing using sanding techniques, often followed by glazing to give the appearance of an antique piece of furniture that has been well taken care of over the years but, has slight natural wear and discoloration on the doors, edges, or sides.
Glazing is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then rubbing off the excess glaze.
In the following examples, several layers of Furniture Paints, Glazes and Top Coats are combined in the tradition of old world craftsmen to create unique decorative finishes in any color palette. The process goes fast as water based finishes dry much more quickly than oil based finishes. Choose from more designs available at our Creative Decorative Finishes Showroom or create your own.
1. Two coats of an orange red furniture paint sanded through
2. Water based top coat to prevent color blending
3. Yellow glaze
4. Final top coats
1. Two coats of a light green furniture paint.
2. Water based top coat to prevent color blending
3. White glaze
4. Final top coats
1. Two coats of a light brown furniture paint sanded through
2. Water based top coat to prevent color blending
3. Brown glaze
4. Final top coats
1. Two coats of a red furniture paint
2. Water based top coat to prevent color blending
3. One or two coats of a green furniture paint sanded through
4. Yellow glaze
5. Final top coats
1. Two coats of a dark red furniture paint
2. Water based top coat to prevent color blending
3. Dark water based wood Stain
4. Final top coats
Applying Furniture Paints
Always test the color on the underside of the project. It is your responsibility to insure that the color is what you want. Do not practice on your new furniture!
Always stir the contents well. Stirring distributes pigments that have settled to the bottom of the can.
Application is somewhat similar to applying latex paint; working quickly is helpful. It is essential to apply a wet, liberal coat with a wide foam brush or paint pad applicator. If too little paint is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance.
A minimum of two to three coats of paint is recommended.
If using different colors of water based furniture paint over one another (for example, when creating antique finishes), always apply a coat of water based Top Coat in between the layers of paint to prevent color blending.
Buff lightly between each coat of furniture paint with either a superfine sanding sponge or #320 sandpaper. The final Top Coat does not need to be buffed.
Apply one or two coats of water based Top Coat for added durability or to increase sheen.
Applying Glazes
White Glaze over off-white Furniture Paint
Yellow Glaze over off-white Furniture Paint
Red Glaze over off white-Furniture Paint
Brown Glaze over off-white Furniture Paint
Reddish Brown Glaze over off-white Furniture Paint
Black Glaze over off-white Furniture Paint
Always test the color on the underside of the project. It is your responsibility to insure that the color is what you want. Do not practice on your new furniture!
Always stir the contents well. Stirring distributes pigments that have settled to the bottom of the can.
Recommendation: Before applying glaze you have the option of Top Coating first, which will help you control the amount of color and facilitate the spreading of glaze over the surface. The Top Coat layer is smoother and less absorbent, allowing the glaze to slide across the surface. If you want a rustic look with more color, skip the Top Coat layer and apply the glaze directly to the paint.
Pour Glaze into a small flat pan, paper plate covered with aluminum foil, or painter's tray. Using a foam brush or paint pad, working one section at a time, apply Glaze liberally (really slather it on), keeping the surface wet until the entire section is covered with glaze. Option: If you have already distress-sanded your furniture, you can lightly rub Glaze just into the sanded areas to give your piece a little more color, instead of glazing the entire piece.
Wipe off excess with a lint free cloth to achieve the desired look. Application is somewhat similar to applying latex paint; working quickly is helpful. If necessary, mask off smaller sections around raised areas such as bead board and moldings. Glazes dry fairly quickly, so plan your sections before beginning. The glaze will color any sanded areas and give the painted sections an aged look. Visit the Finish Room for a step-by-step description of a glazing project with photos.
Recommendation: Before applying glaze you have the option of Top Coating first, which will help you control the amount of color and facilitate the spreading of glaze over the surface. The Top Coat layer is smoother and less absorbent, allowing the glaze to slide across the surface. If you want a rustic look with more color, skip the Top Coat layer and apply the glaze directly to the paint.
Let dry 2-4 hours.
Apply one or two coats of Top Coat for added durability or to increase sheen.
Application of Water Based Top Coats
Water based topcoats are milky white in the can but will dry to a crystal clear finish. Stir contents well to insure that all the ingredients are mixed together. Failure to do so may produce an inconsistent finish.
Apply with a foam brush, a latex paint pad applicator, or by spraying.
Apply water based Top Coats liberally using smooth even strokes working in the direction of the grain. Use enough material to provide a wet film. Do not over brush. Water based Top Coats self level beautifully.
On most projects three coats of Top Coat is just right. On projects receiving extra wear, such as table tops, additional coats will provide more protection.
